Nantucket Vinyl Picket Fence
Before You Begin
- Scan the QR Code for Helpful Tips when installing your fence.
- Before driving pipe anchors, check for underground utilities. In the US, call 811 or visit www.call811.com. In Canada, visit www.clickbeforeyoudig.com to find your provincial one-call centre.
- If your yard slope exceeds 3–4in per 6ft panel, split your panels and add an extra post and brackets.
Returns: Please let us help resolve any issues before initiating a return. If a return is still necessary, it must be initiated with the retailer where the product was purchased.
Need Help or Replacement Parts?
Our US-based customer service team is available Monday–Friday, 9am–5pm EST.
- Parts Website: https://parts.nychbrands.com
- Email: hmmm@wambamfence.com
- Phone: 704-892-5222 or 877-778-5733
- Text: 704-892-5222
For faster service, have your item number (BL19101) and part name ready. A batch lot number (found on the end of the box) is also helpful — it assists us in identifying and resolving any production issues.
Finishing Post: BL19042
Your panel comes with 1 post/anchor kit. You will need 1 BL19042 to finish the fence run.
If installing a gate, you will need two finishing posts — one to terminate the run and one to support the gate. See the diagram below for reference.
Buying Guide
Product Specifications & Dimensions
Post Pounder Considerations
Good
Sledgehammer
10-15lbs.
A basic option for very small projects. Requires two people to keep pipes level during installation.
Better
Manual Post Pounder
12-30lbs.
Best for projects with fewer than 10 pipes. Available online or at hardware stores.
Best
Gas Powered Pounder
Rentals are ideal for larger projects. Significantly reduces time and effort required.
Note:
Choose a post pounder with a barrel diameter of 3in or greater. Pounder barrel cannot be longer than 24in.
Tip! Don't use a 5lb sledgehammer — it won't generate enough force to be effective, and driving the pipe turns into a slow, frustrating grind.
Required Tools
Pounder / Sledge Hammer
Drill with 2in Bit
Measuring Tape
Stringline Reel
Stakes (for stringline)
Hammer / Mallet (for stakes)
Pencil
1ft Level
Large Level
Part Identification
A
Pipe Anchor (1)
1⅝in Diameter x 58½in L
B
Post (1)
4in x 4in x 53in
C
Top Rail (1)
1½in x 3½in x 67¾in
Top rail has holes on both sides
D
Bottom Rail (1)
1½in x 3½in x 67¾in
Bottom rail has holes on only one side
E
Picket (13)
⅞in x 1½in x 44¼in
F
Bracket (4)
G
1in Self-Drilling Stainless Steel Screw (24)
H
Post Cap (1)
Practice Makes Perfect
Start with one full panel — it's the best way to learn the process and confirm your spacing before committing. Once the first panel is complete and verified, drive your next pipe anchor and build each remaining panel one at a time.
Important: Before driving pipe anchors, check for underground utilities. In the US, call 811 or visit www.call811.com. In Canada, visit www.clickbeforeyoudig.com to find your provincial one-call centre.
Step 1: Set Stringline
Hammer a stake at each end of every fence run, then tie string between the stakes. This line keeps your pipes aligned as you drive them. Need help? Watch this video!
Step 2: Determine Slope
Check your yard's slope before driving any pipes
For a slope of 3–4in or less per 6ft panel, no extra posts are needed. You can trim the top of the post to follow the grade once your panel is built.
For a slope greater than 3–4in per 6ft panel, you will need to split your panel. Purchase an additional post and set of brackets before continuing.
Step 3: Mark Pipe Locations
Mark the ground every 72in to determine exact pipe locations, measuring center-to-center.
Step 4: Remove Top Donut
Parts Required
A x1
Before driving your pipes, remove the top donut from pipe anchor (A) by pulling the tabs to unlock and lifting the top donut free. Need help? Watch our leveling donut video.
Step 5: Install Pipes
Parts Required
A x1
Drive pipe anchor (A) into the ground at your first marked location, checking for level roughly every 6in. To stay level, pound equally from all four sides. Continue until the lower gear touches the ground. Repeat for the second pipe — center-to-center spacing must be 72in.
Step 6: Adjust Donuts to Level
With both pipes in the ground, reinstall the top donut onto each pipe anchor (A) one at a time. Check each pipe for level. If a pipe is slightly off, pull the donut tabs outward and rotate the donut to shift its position and compensate. Refer to the donut leveling video in Step 4 for help.
Step 7: Install Posts
Parts Required
B x1
Slide post (B) down over pipe anchor (A). On flat ground, bury the post 3–4in to avoid a floating look.
Installing at a non-standard angle? Watch our angle bracket guide before placing your brackets.
Step 8: Install Bottom Bracket (First Post)
Parts Required
F x1 G x4
On your first post, measure 2in up from the bottom of the post and 1⅛in in from the front edge. Mark this position, then align bracket (F) to your mark and secure it using (4) screws (G). This is your bottom rail bracket.
Step 9: Align Bottom Bracket (Second Post)
Parts Required
D x1 F x1
Slide one end of the bottom rail (D) into the bracket you just installed. Without driving any screws, loosely place a second bracket (F) over the open end of the rail on the second post. Use a level to confirm the rail is level, then mark the bracket position on the second post. Remove the rail and bracket — do not secure anything yet.
Step 10: Install Bottom Bracket (Second Post)
Parts Required
F x1 G x4
Using the mark you made in Step 9, align bracket (F) on the second post and secure it with (4) screws (G).
Step 11: Install Bottom Rail
Parts Required
D x1 G x4
Slide the bottom rail (D) into both brackets. Once seated, secure the rail to each bracket using (4) screws (G) — (2) per bracket side.
Step 12: Install Top Bracket (First Post)
Parts Required
F x1 G x4
On your first post, measure 33in up from the top of the bottom rail and mark the position. Align bracket (F) to your mark and secure it to the post using (4) screws (G). This is your top rail bracket.
Step 13: Align Top Bracket (Second Post)
Parts Required
C x1 F x1
Slide one end of the top rail (C) into the bracket you just installed. Without driving any screws, loosely place a second bracket (F) over the open end of the rail on the second post. Use a level to confirm the rail is level, then mark the bracket position on the second post. Remove the rail and bracket — do not secure anything yet.
Step 14: Install Top Bracket (Second Post)
Parts Required
F x1 G x4
Using the mark you made in Step 13, align bracket (F) on the second post and secure it with (4) screws (G).
Step 15: Install Top Rail
Parts Required
C x1 G x4
Slide the top rail (C) into both brackets. Once seated, secure the rail to each bracket using (4) screws (G) — (2) per bracket side.
Step 16: Insert Pickets
Parts Required
E x13
Insert all (13) pickets (E) through the top rail, pushing each one firmly down until you hear and feel it lock into the bottom rail. Don't be afraid to use muscle — you will not break the vinyl.
Step 17: Install Post Cap
Parts Required
H x1
Press the post cap (H) firmly onto the top of your post until it is fully seated.
Need Help?
- Email: hmmm@wambamfence.com
- Phone: 704-892-5222 or 877-778-5733
- Text: 704-892-5222