Cambridge Vinyl Privacy Fence Kit with No-Dig Post
Cambridge Vinyl Privacy Fence

Before You Begin

  • Before driving pipe anchors, check for underground utilities. In the US, call 811 or visit www.call811.com. In Canada, visit www.clickbeforeyoudig.com to find your provincial one-call centre.
  • Build one complete panel first — there is a learning curve. After one panel is installed, it is most efficient to drive all remaining pipes, then build panels onto the posts.
  • If your yard slope exceeds 3–4in per 6ft panel, you will need to split your panel and purchase an extra post and brackets.

Returns: Please let us help resolve any issues before initiating a return. If a return is still necessary, it must be initiated with the retailer where the product was purchased.

Need Help or Replacement Parts?

Our US-based customer service team is available Monday-Friday, 9am-5pm EST.

For faster service, have your item number (BL19110) and part name ready. A batch lot number (found on the end of the box) is also helpful if available — it helps us identify and resolve any production issues on our end.

Finishing Post: BL19112

Your panel comes with 1 post/anchor kit. You will need 1 Cambridge Finishing Post to finish the fence run.

If you are installing a Cambridge Gate, you will need 2 finishing posts — 1 to finish the run, and 1 to support the gate.

BL19112 Finishing Post

Buying Guide

Product Specifications & Dimensions

Cambridge Dimensions and Specifications

Post Pounder Considerations

Pounders can be purchased or rented at your local hardware store, or on our website.

Good

Good: Small Post Pounder Small Post Pounder
12–18 lbs.
Best for projects with fewer than 10 pipes.

Better

Better: Large Post Pounder Large Post Pounder
20+ lbs.
Best for 10+ pipes, and may require two people for smoothest operation.

Best

Best: Gas Powered Post Pounder Gas Powered Post Pounder
Rentals are ideal for larger projects. Significantly reduces time and effort required.

Pounder barrel diameter must be 3in or greater

Note:
Choose a post pounder with a barrel diameter of 3in or greater. Pounder barrel cannot be longer than 24in.

For safety reasons, we do not recommend using a sledgehammer.

Required Tools

Drill with 2in Bit

Tool: Drill with 2in bit

Measuring Tape

Measuring Tape

Stakes (for stringline)

Stakes (for stringline)

Hammer / Mallet (for stakes)

Hammer / Mallet (for stakes)

Stringline Reel

Stringline Reel

Pencil

Pencil

Large Level

Large Level

Small Level (for pipe pounding)

Small level

Pounder

Tool: Post pounder

Power or Hand Saw with a Fine-Toothed Blade

Tool: Hand saw

Part Identification

A

Pipe Anchor (1)
1⅝in Diameter × 78½in L BL19110 Part A Pipe Anchor

B

Post (1)
4in × 4in × 76in BL19110 Part B Post

C

Bracket (4) BL19110 Part C Bracket

D

Rail (2)
1½in × 3½in × 69¾in BL19110 Part D Rails

E

Board (6)
½in × 12in × 66⅜in

Part E Boards (6)

F

Channel (2)
1½in × 1in × 62⅞in

Part F Channel (2)

G

1in Self-Drilling Stainless Steel Screw (34) BL19110 Part G Self-Drilling Screw

H

Post Cap (1) BL19110 Part H Post Cap

Practice Makes Perfect

Start with one full panel — it's the best way to learn the process. After it's installed, it's most efficient to drive all remaining pipes, then build the rest of the panels onto the posts.

Build one full panel first

Important: Check for underground utilities before you start driving your pipes!

In the US, call 811 or visit www.call811.com. In Canada, visit www.clickbeforeyoudig.com to find your provincial one-call centre.

Call 811

Step 1: Determine Slope

Check your yard's slope before you begin.

If the elevation change is 3–4in or less per 6ft panel, no extra posts are needed — trim the post top to follow the grade once the panel is built.

If the slope exceeds that, you'll need to split your panel: purchase an extra post and set of brackets before continuing.

Determine slope, under 3–4in per 6ft panel

Determine slope, over 3–4in per 6ft panel

Step 2: Set Stringline

Place a stake at each end of every fence run and tie string between them. Your pipes will be driven according to this line. Need help? Watch this video!

Setting stringline stakes along fence run

Step 3: Mark Pipe Locations

Use loose stakes or mark the ground every 74in to determine exact pipe locations. Measurements should be taken from center of pipe to center of pipe.

Mark pipe locations every 74in center to center

Step 4: Remove Top Donut

Parts Required

A x1

Remove the top donut by pulling the tabs to unlock and lifting it off. Need help? Watch our leveling donut video.

Remove top donut from pipe anchor

Step 5: Install Pipe Anchors

Parts Required

A x1

Drive pipe anchor (A) into the ground, checking for level roughly every 6in — pound equally from all four sides to help maintain level. Continue until the lower gear touches the ground. Repeat for the second pipe — center-to-center spacing must be 74in.

Drive pipe anchor into ground, check level every 6in

Step 6: Install Donuts

Parts Required

A x1

With both pipes in the ground, reinstall the top donut onto each pipe anchor (A) one at a time. Check each pipe for level. If a pipe is slightly off, pull the donut tabs outward and rotate the donut to shift its position and compensate. Refer to the donut leveling video in Step 4 for help.

Install top donut onto pipe

Adjust donut tabs to level a crooked pipe

Step 7: Install Posts

Parts Required

B x1

Slide post (B) down over the pipe. On flat ground, bury posts 3–4in and compact soil around them for stability. Inside of post to inside of post should measure 70in.

Install post over pipe anchor

Installing at a non-standard angle? Watch our angle bracket guide before placing your brackets.

Step 8: Install Bottom Bracket (First Post)

Parts Required

C x1 G x4

Measure, mark, and secure the first bracket (C) to your first post using (4) screws (G). The bracket sits 2in off the ground, offset 1¾in from the edge of the post.

Install first bracket 2in off ground

Step 9: Align Bottom Bracket (Second Post)

Parts Required

C x1 D x1

Without driving screws, place a second bracket (C) over the opposite end of rail (D) and rest it against the bracket installed in Step 8. Using a level, mark the location of the second bracket on the opposing post, then remove the rail.

Align second bracket via bottom rail

Step 10: Install Bottom Bracket (Second Post)

Parts Required

G x4

Using your marked location, secure the second bracket to the post with (4) screws (G).

Install second bracket after marking location

Step 11: Install Bottom Rail

Parts Required

D x1 G x4

Secure the bottom rail (D) into the brackets with (4) screws (G).

Secure bottom rail into brackets

Step 12: Install Channels and Top Brackets

Parts Required

C x2 F x2 G x16

Center and install each channel (F) on the post using (4) screws (G) per channel. Repeat for the second post. Align the top brackets (C) flush on top of the channels and secure with (8) screws (G) total.

Install channel on post

Align and secure top bracket on channel

Step 13: Insert Boards

Parts Required

E x6

Install boards (E) by sliding the outer boards through the brackets and channels first — the inner boards link together with their own track system. Insert outer boards first and middle boards last for the easiest install; ensure the outer boards are pushed to the back of the track.

Board installation sequence, outer boards first

Board track detail, front and back positions

Boards pushed to back of track

Step 14: Install Top Rail

Parts Required

D x1 G x4

Install the top rail (D) and secure with (4) screws (G) through the pre-drilled holes in the rail brackets.

Installing top rail into upper brackets

Securing top rail with screws through pre-drilled holes

Step 15: Install Post Caps

Parts Required

H x2

Trim down the tops of the posts if necessary, then install post caps (H).

Install post caps

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